The Front Panel

by Sandra A. Krasovec

What is the Meaning of Luxury In Today's Age of Overabundance, And is the Concept Still Relevant?

The elusive concept of luxury struck me during in a walk-through of a historical exhibit on fragrance and fashion. While in conversation with the curator and colleagues, the conversation kept returning to one question: What defines luxury now in comparison to earlier times, and in the broad history of consumable goods?

Clearly, the aforementioned exhibit focused on beautiful clothing, fashion accessories, and fragrance bottles that would be deemed luxury items in the first half of the 20th century. These items were luxury because of their exclusive design and selective distribution. Would they still be deemed so today? Probably, because limited editions of any fashion item offer the promise of uniqueness.

But what about luxuries we have come to call products today? The Silk Road of the Far East brought silk, spices, precious gems, rare metals, perfume, cosmetics, furs, and other exotic products across Asia and Europe. At that time, luxury goods were easily defined as costly and rare—"products" that brought physical and emotional enjoyment to the few who could afford them. Coveted by all but consumed by only the most affluent from both the East and West, these products were assessed with a high value because of their rarity and the time and distance that attaining them required. But how would rarity, time, and distance translate into luxury today?

In our present, highly consumable society, luxury seems to be a bit of a contradiction. Many brands and products that have traditionally been labeled luxury items are now accessible to the masses, though often still at a higher price. What happens if price is the only thing that separates a luxury item from a class of products in a consumer's mind? The concept of luxury may be lost. Can the same aura of luxury and exclusivity can be achieved through another avenue—perhaps through innovative and enticing packaging?

Can you make a package look exclusive, or rare, or unique? Can you make a package feel luxurious? Since many luxury items are more affordable than ever before, the onus lies on our profession to impart the allure of luxury in a believable and trustworthy manner.

New materials and technologies have aided in the illusion of luxury. Reduced manufacturing costs and the substitution of materials (e.g., plastics for glass) are also factors in the number of products that we have access to at relatively affordable prices.

Does affordability taint the concept of luxury, of the rarity and exclusivity of branded goods? Can a concept of affordable luxury be maintained in the eye of the consumer? And what is the psychology behind a desire to covet what is now easily accessible and obtainable? How does a consumer perceive the value of brands that are considered today's luxuries, that have become cultural icons or products branded with real names—and why do they perceive them as luxuries?

Aside from established brands, one current trend is for fashion divas, designers, architects, and celebrities (and some others not so famous) to produce goods licensed under their name and become brands themselves. Demand for these products continues to grow, and choices are seemingly infinite when looking at the broad landscape of the global marketplace. The idea of "the brand" may become diluted because of this, even though the consumer still perceives the brand as a luxury, because luxury is in the eye of the beholder.

So has conspicuous consumption reached an all-time high? Are there too many things that are too accessible? It seems that the perceived value of what are considered luxury goods has not changed even though exclusivity has given way to accessibility and affordability.

Packaging design, through its uniqueness and visual communication of the brand, is the last vehicle to induce a purchasing decision. Being charged with the task of promoting and/or maintaining a brand's promise and creating packaging solutions for its products, our profession must address luxury in the marketplace. It is my belief that we can also promote luxury in a positive, reasonable, and responsible manner. For instance, we can help manufacturers understand the advantages to producing quality goods and packages that have a longer life span than what is currently available. Improving the quality of any product can help impart the idea of luxury back into products that are truly unique, have value, and take some effort and discipline to obtain.

Perhaps the idea of luxury will come around full circle and the newer generations of consumers will look for quality, value, and exclusivity to a certain extent with a backlash against "over-branding." For now, with luxury accessible and more affordable, consumers still look to some products to make themselves feel better physically and emotionally, finding comfort in those products. The challenge ahead is to maintain that allure in perceived luxury, and to do so with an eye to finding a healthy balance in luxury as both perception and reality.

Sandra A. Krasovec is an assistant professor teaching full-time in the Packaging Design Department at FIT (Fashion Institute of Technology) in New York City, where she has written curriculum and taught courses for eight years. She has over 20 years of experience in packaging and brand identity development for new products, brand extension, and brand repositioning. Contact her at sandra_krasovec@fitnyc.edu or at info@krasovecdesign.com.